On the corner of France Ave S, you will find a bright blue logo advertising a “pizza paradise.” In Nov., 2024, this new face appeared on 50th & France among the well-known veteran restaurants.
Walking into Mothership Pizza Paradise, I expected to be greeted with something vaguely space-themed, perhaps with planet-inspired saucers. Instead, I found myself inside a retro-funk Italian diner. While the name may suggest extra-terrestrial inspiration, the restaurant is intended as an homage to the “motherships who raised us.” With striped booths, red chairs and bright colors, the restaurant’s aesthetic offered a comforting, nostalgic vibe. Despite this, some of the decorations felt random. The sports bar-esque TVs, the picture of Elvis and the Chinese takeout boxes offered for leftovers seemed to stray from the otherwise intentional picture of vintage colored lights and funky prints.
The menu features a well-defined array of pizzas, pastas and assorted Italian appetizers. Upon first glance, I was skeptical after seeing the steep $20+ pizzas and $24 pastas. After being told to follow my heart when looking at the pizza ingredients, I settled on the gluten-free “Kathy,” a classic pepperoni pizza, Rigatoni bolognese, a phony negroni and an amaro falso.
The drinks came out first. Served in aesthetically appealing glass bottles, paired with rocks glasses topped with orange slices, the drinks had an allure to them. For drinks heavily based on bitters, the espresso and amaro managed to sneak into the palette of the drink; however, these drinks are catered more to experienced drinkers who are avoiding alcohol rather than the unrefined teenager palette. If you’re looking for a drink that’s a step up from the typical order of soda or water, this is not the beverage for you. Ringing in at $9 each, these are better suited to replace a more mature beverage order.
Kathy arrived next. I immediately noticed the crispy, cupped pepperoni, characteristic of an excellent artisan pizza. The star of this pizza is the housemade red sauce, which features hand-crushed tomatoes. It was bright and fresh and elevated what would otherwise be a simple pizza to a new level. The cheese blend worked well with the fresh basil, and the pepperoni added great texture and flavor. I was curious what their gluten-free crust would taste like. Motherships’ crust stands out as a palatable, well-made option among an array of gluten-free crusts that taste more like the pizza box than bread. Retaining the classic doughy taste of a thin-crust pizza, this gluten-free option is just as good as the regular crust.
The rigatoni came in a giant bowl that engulfed the portion size. Despite the smaller serving, the pasta was the highlight of the meal. The texture of the pasta was appealing, with a rich bolognese sauce and finely minced pork and beef. This simple yet classic dish’s rich sauce and pork decadence made up for what would typically be a lacking portion.
With Edina-tailored prices and Edina-sized portions, Mothership is a paradise if you’re celebrating an accomplishment or on a date-night where spending $25+ on personal entrees is called for. With funky vibes and a well-rounded menu, it’ll be easy to find something for everyone. That being said, if you’re looking for a casual in-and-out meal, or to get takeout, you’d be better off at a different location.
Mothership Pizza Paradise: ★★★★☆
